IT IS understandable why the French and British fought a lengthy war over the control of Seychelles back in the 18th century. The archipelago of 115 granite and coralline islands is home to some of the best beaches in the world, two Unesco World Heritage Sites and an amazing ecology of some of the rarest flora and fauna. If God had intended land and sea to coexist so distinctly and harmoniously, Seychelles would surely be on top of that list.
Stranded out in the Indian Ocean, north-east of Madagascar and thousands of miles away from traffic jams and ultra modern skyscrapers, Seychelles is carefree and still untainted by modernisation. Despite the slew of luxury hotels mushrooming across the islands, Seychelles has managed to retain its own wonderfully laidback way of life.
Independence from the British was established in 1976. A young nation with a population of a little over 80,000, Seychelles' economy relied mainly on tourism, which employs more than 30 per cent of the labour force. This looks set to increase despite the Seychelles government's efforts to diversify the economy after the catastrophic drop in tourist arrivals following September 11, 2001.
The list of luxury hotels leaving a footprint in Seychelles reads like the who's who of the hospitality industry. Resorts like North Island, Four Seasons, Maia Luxury Resort, Fregate, Banyan Tree, and Constance Lemuria have already been welcoming visitors, a large proportion of them Europeans. Newcomers like the Maldives-based Per Aquum group and Singapore-based Raffles Hotels & Resorts too have plans to hop on the bandwagon. The latter is slated to open in 2011 with 90 villas and 23 estate homes.
Escape from the city is the raison d'etre for visiting Seychelles. The natural landscape is stunning. Ancient granite boulders framing the legendary beaches, lush, exotic vegetation, an impressive array of endemic species and fascinating marine life - being in Seychelles is to be at one with nature.
Of course, Seychelles is home to some of the best beaches in the world, like Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette. Miles of pristine beaches and azure waters as far as the eye can see make Seychelles the perfect destination for beachcombers. Unlike the Maldives, with its incomparable talcum soft sand circling the tiny islands, you get long stretches of picturesque beaches in Seychelles. Watching the sun slowly slipping into the horizon, the waves gently lapping, soft sand under your skin, whether you're meditating or sipping a cocktail, the charm of Seychelles, cliched as it may sound, is simply magical.
Seychelles is also known as the 'Galapagos of the Indian Ocean'. The celebrated Coco-de-mer, also called the love fruit for its resemblance to the female pelvis is found only in Seychelles on the islands of Praslin and Curieuse.
On the second largest island, Praslin, is the Unesco World Heritage Site of Vallee de Mai, once believed to be the original Garden of Eden. Hiking through this primeval forest is a humbling experience. The trees are Jurassic in proportions! Vallee de Mai is one of the key highlights of Seychelles. With a good guide to help manoeuvre through the forest and enhance the appreciation of these giants with their in-depth knowledge of the botany, history and its legends, the hike is a very pleasant experience, although the thought of the Coco-de-mer nuts, which by the way weigh like a ton of bricks, strung high up on trees as tall as 10-storey buildings, may be a little unnerving.
The Aldabra Atoll is the other Unesco World Heritage Site. It is the world's largest raised coral atoll and is uninhabited, except for a group of researchers. It is home to more than 100,000 giant tortoises, some as large as a Volkswagen Beetle car.
Other fauna include green turtles, hawksbill turtles, hammerhead sharks and manta rays. The white throated rail, the only flightless bird in the Indian Ocean, is also found here on Aldabra. This treasure trove is fiercely protected. Permission from Seychelles Island Foundation, the caretakers of the Unesco World Heritage Sites, is required to visit Aldabra.
If all that nature is making you dizzy, you can make a trip to Victoria, the capital of Seychelles, which sits on Mahe, the largest island in the archipelago. It is also where the international airport is located. I had planned to spend a good half-day at Victoria. But sadly, my companion and I finished our exploration in less than three hours, lunch included. The town is compact. The few sights are easily covered on foot. Victoria is only recommended for those suffering from an acute overdose of nature.
Food lovers should also be warned to lower their expectations. A week in Seychelles (return flights from Singapore are on a weekly basis) will leave one longing for a hot bowl of instant kimchi ramen. Despite being surrounded by waters, seafood in Seychelles is surprisingly underwhelming. The most consistent and competent dish is the heart of palm salad. Service, like the island way of life, is slow and unhurried. Outside of the international luxury hotels, warm and friendly service is almost non-existent.
Despite the influx of international hotels, Seychelles remains unruffled by all the attention. The government maintains very strict environmental legislation on every project. This, in turn, ensures the long-term sustainability of the natural environment, which is the pride and lifeline of the country. Even the luxury hotels are built to blend seamlessly into the background.
There is no disputing Seychelles' natural beauty. The dramatic granite outcrops, sweeping vistas, sparkling Indian Ocean and gorgeous beaches are only the most obvious aspects of the Seychellois splendour. The archipelago hosts some of the largest bird sanctuaries in the world and is a top destination for bird-watchers. The surrounding waters are teeming with marine life with plenty of sites for diving, snorkelling and fishing. But depending on seasonality, the waters are not always safe for swimming, even for experienced swimmers.
What sets Seychelles apart is its natural heritage. It has so much more than picture postcard beaches. From the prehistoric forests and ancient boulders to the endemic species and vibrant marine ecology, Seychelles is a living museum of natural history. Here is a sanctuary where man is deferential to nature. Life is as nature intended, unapologetically pure, barefooted and relaxed.
btnews@sph.com.sg
This article was first published in The Business Times on Jan 31, 2009
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